Hold Types
Jug
Pinch
Pinch
- What it is: A big, comfy climbing hold that’s easy to grab. Think of it as a handle you can really wrap your fingers around.
- Best for: Beginners or anyone looking to rest mid-route because it offers a strong, secure grip.
- Shape/Style: Usually deep and rounded, making it feel like you’re holding onto a jug or bucket.
Pinch
Pinch
Pinch
- What it is: A climbing hold that you grip by squeezing between your thumb and fingers from opposite sides.
- Best for: Developing finger and hand strength. Frequently found on more advanced or technical routes.
- Shape/Style: Comes in a variety of widths and depths but is always designed to be held by pinching with your thumb and fingers.
Edge
Pinch
Crimp
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Crimp
Sloper
Crimp
- What it is: A slim, flat hold that can only be gripped with your fingertips.
- Best for: Challenging your finger strength and precision. Often found on technical and demanding routes.
- Shape/Style: Typically thin and horizontal, resembling the edge of a book or a narrow ledge.
Sloper
Sloper
Sloper
- What it is: A large, rounded hold without a defined edge, requiring you to rely on friction and an open-handed grip.
- Best for: Developing strength and refining body positioning, particularly on overhangs or sloping walls.
- Shape/Style: Smooth, dome-like, and difficult to grip, often challenging climbers to use balance and technique.
Sloper
Sloper
- What it is: A hold featuring one or more holes designed for you to insert your fingers into.
- Best for: Building finger strength and precision, as these holds typically allow only one to three fingers.
- Shape/Style: Varies in depth and size, ranging from mono pockets (1 finger) to 2- or 3-finger pockets, with difficulty increasing as the size decreases.
other holds
Side Pulls, Underclings, and Gastons
While side pulls, underclings, and gastons aren’t specific shapes of holds, they describe how holds are used based on their orientation. Almost every climbing hold has a side that is most advantageous, and depending on how that side is positioned, the hold may function as one of these types rather than its defined shape. Here’s how each of these techniques works:
Side Pulls
- What they are: Side pulls occur when a hold is oriented sideways, pointing away from the climber.
- How to use them: While the hold itself can still be gripped like any other, side pulls require the climber’s body to lean away from the hold. Instead of relying on gravity to generate downward force, you create horizontal force to stay connected. This technique often demands tension in your core and opposing pressure from your feet.
Gastons
- What they are: Gastons also involve sideways holds, but these are oriented toward the climber rather than away.
- How to use them: Gastons require an outward pushing motion, often using both hands in opposition. Picture pushing open a sliding glass door by placing your outward-facing hands in the gap and pressing apart. To use a single gaston effectively, you’ll often need to get your feet high and lean your body past the hold. Be cautious—your body will naturally try to twist away from the wall, so core tension is key.
Underclings
- What they are: Underclings are holds that face upside down, requiring an upward grip.
- How to use them: To grip an undercling, turn your palm upward and pull outward while pressing your feet into the wall for opposing force. Underclings can be tricky to use when the hold is below you but become much more manageable as you climb higher. They are especially useful for generating upward momentum or standing up when the hold is below your waist.
Volume
- What it is: Large, modular shapes attached to the wall to alter the route's dynamics. They can serve as a base for smaller holds or be used as climbing features themselves.
- Best for: Adding variety, complexity, or style to a route. They can significantly influence the difficulty and movement required.
- Shape/Style: Typically large and geometric, ranging from triangles and cubes to irregular forms, with surfaces that can be sloped, flat, or textured.
Traversing: Putting It All Together
Now that you understand side pulls, gastons, and underclings, practice using them to improve your technique. One of the best ways to build strength, endurance, and confidence is by traversing horizontally across the wall. Focus on using holds in new ways, especially those that challenge you. With time and practice, you’ll notice significant improvements in your climbing skills!
